I'm writing this from the bus, and as i look around, I think we are tired, grimy, happy, excited, and ready to be home!
Monday, May 21, 2012
Almost home
We hit JFK airport right on time, 30 hours into our journey home. This photo was taken right as we got off the plane. We have survived 4 flights and a bus ride, and have just the 5 hour drive back to Elmira. We should be back on campus by early evening.
I'm writing this from the bus, and as i look around, I think we are tired, grimy, happy, excited, and ready to be home!
I'm writing this from the bus, and as i look around, I think we are tired, grimy, happy, excited, and ready to be home!
Sunday, May 20, 2012
On our way home
We leave our hotel soon for the long trip. "Ready." That's the space we are in as we head home.
Saturday, May 19, 2012
Last day in India
Today was our last day here, which is both exciting and sad. India is such a powerful and amazing place, it's hard to leave. At the same time, I'm hearing more and more conversations about home. I guess it's time.
We had a free day today, and most of the students spent some time on the beach. Today was our most humid day so far, which is really saying something! So if people weren't in the ocean, they were in the pool. Or shopping in the little beach town close by. It's just a lovely 40 walk on the beach to the little town of Colva. Apparently during "the season" it is filled with tourist friendly shops (some of which are still open, thank goodness!). I think most of the last minute shopping was finished up today in Colva.
Tonight we had dinner on the beach at sunset. There we were, on this beautiful beach in this beautiful country, such a great group of students, watching the glorious pink sun set over the rolling waves of the Arabian Sea. It was breathtaking.
Later, after dark, we sat eating with candles on the tables and our feet on the sand. Around us were groups of Indians talking and strolling on the beach. There was a friendly pack of happy- looking street dogs playing nearby in the sand, and an adorable little beach puppy that some of the students cuddled. The ocean breeze was cool and calming. We talked and laughed and ate, there were a few little speeches, and we thanked our wonderful escort Uttam Mishra, who travelled with us our whole way. He has been so competent and so accommodating, and so much fun! Students got him a number of presents to say thanks, including quite a striking American flag theme sleeveless shirt. We laughed and laughed. It was really a lovely way to end our class in India.
This has been such a great group of students, and we have had so many amazing experiences--and some challenging experiences as well. India is such a multicultural place, and it is so full of contrasts. The wealth and great poverty. The ancient and the aggressively modern. The east and the west. Very local and at the same time, so very global. What a place is India!
We leave midday tomorrow for our bus ride to the airport. We have 4 connecting flights and then a bus ride back to campus. It's a long trip, but it will help us slowly transition home. I'll try to update the blog as I can. We'll be back Monday In the early evening if all goes well. And we'll be ready to be home by then.
We had a free day today, and most of the students spent some time on the beach. Today was our most humid day so far, which is really saying something! So if people weren't in the ocean, they were in the pool. Or shopping in the little beach town close by. It's just a lovely 40 walk on the beach to the little town of Colva. Apparently during "the season" it is filled with tourist friendly shops (some of which are still open, thank goodness!). I think most of the last minute shopping was finished up today in Colva.
Tonight we had dinner on the beach at sunset. There we were, on this beautiful beach in this beautiful country, such a great group of students, watching the glorious pink sun set over the rolling waves of the Arabian Sea. It was breathtaking.
Later, after dark, we sat eating with candles on the tables and our feet on the sand. Around us were groups of Indians talking and strolling on the beach. There was a friendly pack of happy- looking street dogs playing nearby in the sand, and an adorable little beach puppy that some of the students cuddled. The ocean breeze was cool and calming. We talked and laughed and ate, there were a few little speeches, and we thanked our wonderful escort Uttam Mishra, who travelled with us our whole way. He has been so competent and so accommodating, and so much fun! Students got him a number of presents to say thanks, including quite a striking American flag theme sleeveless shirt. We laughed and laughed. It was really a lovely way to end our class in India.
This has been such a great group of students, and we have had so many amazing experiences--and some challenging experiences as well. India is such a multicultural place, and it is so full of contrasts. The wealth and great poverty. The ancient and the aggressively modern. The east and the west. Very local and at the same time, so very global. What a place is India!
We leave midday tomorrow for our bus ride to the airport. We have 4 connecting flights and then a bus ride back to campus. It's a long trip, but it will help us slowly transition home. I'll try to update the blog as I can. We'll be back Monday In the early evening if all goes well. And we'll be ready to be home by then.
Friday, May 18, 2012
St. Francis Xavier's body and relics
The coffin-shaped wood box towards the top holds his body. Note the windows in the box. We could see the fabric of his clothes. 
Adventures in Goa
We are staying in South Goa, the quiet and rural end of this Indian state. Today, we drove to North Goa, to see the capital city and several important religious sites. Our bus broke down by the side of the road, trapping us for some time, but we ended our day with a boat trip that turned into a rather fabulous disco party cruise, Indian style! What a day!
Our first visit was to a very old and important local temple, the Shree Mangueshi temple. Mangueshi is an incarnation of Shiva, and the lingam that is worshipped here is said to have been consecrated by Brahma himself. The temple that we visited, while 500 years old, is not the original temple. The alter and relics were moved in 1560 as the Portuguese colonized the region. The temple is guarded and cared for by 24 families who have the traditional responsibility for it. They have periodically revamped the temple complex, and it is a fascinating amalgam of styles and time periods. We entered the grounds by a lovely half-mile walkway through a garden on the large grounds.
The main temple is at the top of a slight hill. It is white plaster, in the Portuguese style. After we took off our shoes, we went inside with the worshippers. We were the only foreigners there. The main hall looks more like a church than most Hindu temples, with massive marble pillars carved in a Greek style. The front has the shrine, although it was set far back from us. Devotees were bowing and kneeling, some of them going prostrate on the ground and kissing the stone floor. Priests were blessing people with ash bindis and holy water that worshippers were rubbing on their heads. Above us, interestingly, were a large number of huge fancy antique Venetian glass chandeliers, like something that Marie Antoinette might have had. The inside walls were white plaster except in front, where the walls were paneled in what looked like solid carved silver.
We got an immediate contrast, as we went next to the Bom Jesus church. The word 'bom,' by the way, means 'good' and it is the same word that was used for the root name of Bombay. The church is very old, made of the local red brick. Inside, the walls are white plaster and intricately carved wood covered in gold leaf. This church was the headquarters of the Portuguese Catholic mission in India. But more important, it is where St. Francis Xavier's body is kept. Francis Xavier was one of the original Jesuits and he died fairly young while building missions in Asia. His body was taken to Bom Jesus church, where it is now kept-- desiccated and whole-- in a large coffin shaped box with windows. We were able to see him, or parts of him, at least!
At the end of the afternoon, we went on what we thought was going to be a boat tour of the capital city, Panjim. It turns out that we were actually the only foreigners on a party cruise, complete with a cheesy disco. Every chair on the boat faced the stage, so we (and all the large Indian families with us) were definitely there for the disco, not the water. Fortunately, it turns out that Indian party cruises are ridiculously fun! Not to mention that they are also a really interesting cross cultural experience.
The DJs called up different groups of people to dance on the stage, starting with kids. Then he called married couples--the students pretty much insisted that David and I go up and dance, which we did, and which set off much cheering and clapping. (It was a lot of fun, by the way!) The music was hindi disco, so we had no idea what was being sung, although every now and then there would be random words in english.
Men were called up next to dance, and this was pretty fun to watch. The stage was swarmed by tubby middle aged Indian men who were having a lot of fun. Let's just say that most of them were far more enthusiastic than actually talented. But they went for it. Then our beloved escort, Uttam Mishra, got on the stage and really put on a show. Students could not stop screaming and laughing, and then the DJs played the only song we knew, 'I'm Sexy and I Know It," and it was all a big party from there.
By the time they called women up there to the stage, students were ready to dance. The DJs gave a special shout-out to "Elmira University," and EC put the dance party on that cruise. It was so cheesy, and so fun. It was really genuinely fabulous!
The dance party continued on the bus back--who knew that the bus had blue interior ceiling lights, or that the sound system could play Indian pop music?
It was a great end to the day. As I write this, some students are taking a night swim in the pool. Others are hanging out in the common rooms. A few, who aren't feeling well (nothing serious) are in bed. Tomorrow is our last day in India, and we have free time all day. I know a lot of last minute shopping is planned, for all those gifts for everyone back home. I think some serious beach time is planned as well. It's hard to believe we leave so soon.
Our first visit was to a very old and important local temple, the Shree Mangueshi temple. Mangueshi is an incarnation of Shiva, and the lingam that is worshipped here is said to have been consecrated by Brahma himself. The temple that we visited, while 500 years old, is not the original temple. The alter and relics were moved in 1560 as the Portuguese colonized the region. The temple is guarded and cared for by 24 families who have the traditional responsibility for it. They have periodically revamped the temple complex, and it is a fascinating amalgam of styles and time periods. We entered the grounds by a lovely half-mile walkway through a garden on the large grounds.
The main temple is at the top of a slight hill. It is white plaster, in the Portuguese style. After we took off our shoes, we went inside with the worshippers. We were the only foreigners there. The main hall looks more like a church than most Hindu temples, with massive marble pillars carved in a Greek style. The front has the shrine, although it was set far back from us. Devotees were bowing and kneeling, some of them going prostrate on the ground and kissing the stone floor. Priests were blessing people with ash bindis and holy water that worshippers were rubbing on their heads. Above us, interestingly, were a large number of huge fancy antique Venetian glass chandeliers, like something that Marie Antoinette might have had. The inside walls were white plaster except in front, where the walls were paneled in what looked like solid carved silver.
We got an immediate contrast, as we went next to the Bom Jesus church. The word 'bom,' by the way, means 'good' and it is the same word that was used for the root name of Bombay. The church is very old, made of the local red brick. Inside, the walls are white plaster and intricately carved wood covered in gold leaf. This church was the headquarters of the Portuguese Catholic mission in India. But more important, it is where St. Francis Xavier's body is kept. Francis Xavier was one of the original Jesuits and he died fairly young while building missions in Asia. His body was taken to Bom Jesus church, where it is now kept-- desiccated and whole-- in a large coffin shaped box with windows. We were able to see him, or parts of him, at least!
At the end of the afternoon, we went on what we thought was going to be a boat tour of the capital city, Panjim. It turns out that we were actually the only foreigners on a party cruise, complete with a cheesy disco. Every chair on the boat faced the stage, so we (and all the large Indian families with us) were definitely there for the disco, not the water. Fortunately, it turns out that Indian party cruises are ridiculously fun! Not to mention that they are also a really interesting cross cultural experience.
The DJs called up different groups of people to dance on the stage, starting with kids. Then he called married couples--the students pretty much insisted that David and I go up and dance, which we did, and which set off much cheering and clapping. (It was a lot of fun, by the way!) The music was hindi disco, so we had no idea what was being sung, although every now and then there would be random words in english.
Men were called up next to dance, and this was pretty fun to watch. The stage was swarmed by tubby middle aged Indian men who were having a lot of fun. Let's just say that most of them were far more enthusiastic than actually talented. But they went for it. Then our beloved escort, Uttam Mishra, got on the stage and really put on a show. Students could not stop screaming and laughing, and then the DJs played the only song we knew, 'I'm Sexy and I Know It," and it was all a big party from there.
By the time they called women up there to the stage, students were ready to dance. The DJs gave a special shout-out to "Elmira University," and EC put the dance party on that cruise. It was so cheesy, and so fun. It was really genuinely fabulous!
The dance party continued on the bus back--who knew that the bus had blue interior ceiling lights, or that the sound system could play Indian pop music?
It was a great end to the day. As I write this, some students are taking a night swim in the pool. Others are hanging out in the common rooms. A few, who aren't feeling well (nothing serious) are in bed. Tomorrow is our last day in India, and we have free time all day. I know a lot of last minute shopping is planned, for all those gifts for everyone back home. I think some serious beach time is planned as well. It's hard to believe we leave so soon.
Beautiful new Indian-style jewelry
Modeled by Christine. Many students are bringing home some fabulous new jewelry from India.
A traditional Goan fisherman's hut
Right on the beach just a 10 minute walk from where we are staying. Sorry the photo is dark, it was backlit by the sunrise.
Christian shrine
In the tile box style of many Hindu shrines. This one had both flower offerings and burning tributes. 
Thursday, May 17, 2012
Goa
Goa is beautiful. We are staying in South Goa, in an area on the beach near Margao. This is not a very populated area, and we are often the only foreigners on the beach. The nature around us is amazing! And alongside our hotel and a few others, mixed in with the beach houses, are the original fisherman's huts of the real people who live and work on the beach. Beach dogs are friendly and happy, and there are wild pigs and water buffalo. And thousands of crabs scuttling into the sand. We had a group of students wake up before light today just to walk out on the beach to see the sunrise. This is a lovely place to end our time in India, and it's a good transition from some of the intensity of urban India. We will certainly be relaxed--hopefully--when we get back to campus on Monday.
The downside? It is very humid here! The humidity shimmers in the air, making it hard to breathe sometimes. Even early in the morning, it's brutal. We have been swimming in the ocean or the pool pretty much every opportunity we have.
We visited a small city today, and walked around in the center, experiencing a real (non-tourist) slice of Indian life. It was interesting. The streets were uneven, and the transitions from sidewalks to curbs to pavement were especially treacherous. One spot had about a 3 foot step up, with a grungy moat about 20 inches wide between pavement and sidewalk. The shops were tiny and unorganized. This is the only place we've visited that hasn't had a swarm of street vendors instantly appear at our side, trying to sell us anything from magnets with the Taj Mahal to handmade scarves to leather bound books. The vegetable market here was really grimy and intense. However, there were a lot of amazing local fruits and vegetables, including some I couldn't identify. We did buy some fresh litchis, still on the branches, and small local Goan mangoes. The litchis were amazing and many students tried them for the first time.
One of the interesting things about this region of India is that while there are still many roadside shrines and little niche devotional temples built into the walls of the buildings, most of them are Christian. We have gotten so used to seeing Ganesha, Shiva, and Hanuman shrines that we almost don't notice that the shrines here are for Mary or Jesus. What is especially interesting, though, is that some of the Christian shrines are decorated with the same kind of offerings as the Hindu shrines: garlands, flowers, and little pots of incense. There are also quite a lot of churches, clearly outnumbering the temples in this area.
Most of the signs here are in English, more so than in everywhere else except Mumbai. Not all of the English is perfect, and we have noticed some fun (and funny) ways of putting things. For example, we saw the Vile Taxi, and the Vapid Taxi. We saw a three-wheeled tuk tuk called "The Body Gourd." A luxury highrise named Okay Okay Towers. The Booti Beauty Palace. Intimate brand drinking water. And on.
I think students will start out on the beach early tomorrow before we get going. We have some serious tanners amongst us, and I swear that several students are several shades darker just since we have reached Goa. We have a busy day tomorrow, and in between our class activities, a busy day at the beach. We only have two more days here before we start our long journey home.
The downside? It is very humid here! The humidity shimmers in the air, making it hard to breathe sometimes. Even early in the morning, it's brutal. We have been swimming in the ocean or the pool pretty much every opportunity we have.
We visited a small city today, and walked around in the center, experiencing a real (non-tourist) slice of Indian life. It was interesting. The streets were uneven, and the transitions from sidewalks to curbs to pavement were especially treacherous. One spot had about a 3 foot step up, with a grungy moat about 20 inches wide between pavement and sidewalk. The shops were tiny and unorganized. This is the only place we've visited that hasn't had a swarm of street vendors instantly appear at our side, trying to sell us anything from magnets with the Taj Mahal to handmade scarves to leather bound books. The vegetable market here was really grimy and intense. However, there were a lot of amazing local fruits and vegetables, including some I couldn't identify. We did buy some fresh litchis, still on the branches, and small local Goan mangoes. The litchis were amazing and many students tried them for the first time.
One of the interesting things about this region of India is that while there are still many roadside shrines and little niche devotional temples built into the walls of the buildings, most of them are Christian. We have gotten so used to seeing Ganesha, Shiva, and Hanuman shrines that we almost don't notice that the shrines here are for Mary or Jesus. What is especially interesting, though, is that some of the Christian shrines are decorated with the same kind of offerings as the Hindu shrines: garlands, flowers, and little pots of incense. There are also quite a lot of churches, clearly outnumbering the temples in this area.
Most of the signs here are in English, more so than in everywhere else except Mumbai. Not all of the English is perfect, and we have noticed some fun (and funny) ways of putting things. For example, we saw the Vile Taxi, and the Vapid Taxi. We saw a three-wheeled tuk tuk called "The Body Gourd." A luxury highrise named Okay Okay Towers. The Booti Beauty Palace. Intimate brand drinking water. And on.
I think students will start out on the beach early tomorrow before we get going. We have some serious tanners amongst us, and I swear that several students are several shades darker just since we have reached Goa. We have a busy day tomorrow, and in between our class activities, a busy day at the beach. We only have two more days here before we start our long journey home.
Wednesday, May 16, 2012
Playing on the beach
Don't know why this photo came out so gray, but in person the sun and sea were sparkly and bright.
Arriving in Goa
We left our hotel this morning for the long drive to the airport. We drove through the gleaming city of new Mumbai and the gracious city of colonial Bombay. We passed by dark makeshift slums and bustling construction sites. Parks, people, traffic. Amazing architecture, both old and new. At one point, we drove on a glorious new bridge jutting out over the sea, bypassing the frenzy of city traffic.
The airport was confusing and security was very thorough: let's just say that Indian airport security puts the TSA to shame. Thank goodness for Uttam, our wonderful escort, who got us through all the way to Goa.
Goa is definitely tropical India, our first experience with this climate. It is hot and humid! While we have seen a few palm trees here and there in other areas, Goa is primarily carpeted in palms, growing densely into a kind of jungle forest. The ground is sandy and scrubby, and tropical flowers are blooming everywhere. Riotously bright hibiscus, some in colors and shapes I've never seen before. Birds of paradise in orange and red. Jasmine, second only in gorgeous scent to the massive blooms of plumeria on the trees--the thick dense perfume of plumeria is all around us.
Goa looks different from the rest of what we've seen of India not only because of the nature, but because of the buildings as well. This area of India was originally colonized by the Portuguese, and they have left their legacy on the architecture. Houses here have long balconies and porches with white pillars. They are plastered, with inlaid patterns, and have terra cotta tile roofs. And they are painted in bright tropical colors: yellows and oranges and blues and shocking lime green. It looks quite like Brazil, which isn't surprising. Amidst the colorful houses, some of which are a little run down, are a lot of open sided palm thatched huts, which house many of the local fishermen and their families. The little towns look slightly more European than elsewhere on India, although they are unmistakably Indian.
Our hotel is right by the beach. The sand is golden-red, the beach is wide and long and filled with nature. The waves crash large here, and we can hear the roar constantly. The water is warmer than the air, and is shallow to the waist for a long way out. It is a beautiful beach--and in case we ever forget that we are in India, every now and then a massive water buffalo walks by.
We've had some free time this afternoon and students have been swimming and playing in the waves. All is peaceful and beautiful in this lovely tropical place. In fact, I'm writing this from the beach, watching the golden sun set over the shimmering sea.
Why am I still blogging??
The airport was confusing and security was very thorough: let's just say that Indian airport security puts the TSA to shame. Thank goodness for Uttam, our wonderful escort, who got us through all the way to Goa.
Goa is definitely tropical India, our first experience with this climate. It is hot and humid! While we have seen a few palm trees here and there in other areas, Goa is primarily carpeted in palms, growing densely into a kind of jungle forest. The ground is sandy and scrubby, and tropical flowers are blooming everywhere. Riotously bright hibiscus, some in colors and shapes I've never seen before. Birds of paradise in orange and red. Jasmine, second only in gorgeous scent to the massive blooms of plumeria on the trees--the thick dense perfume of plumeria is all around us.
Goa looks different from the rest of what we've seen of India not only because of the nature, but because of the buildings as well. This area of India was originally colonized by the Portuguese, and they have left their legacy on the architecture. Houses here have long balconies and porches with white pillars. They are plastered, with inlaid patterns, and have terra cotta tile roofs. And they are painted in bright tropical colors: yellows and oranges and blues and shocking lime green. It looks quite like Brazil, which isn't surprising. Amidst the colorful houses, some of which are a little run down, are a lot of open sided palm thatched huts, which house many of the local fishermen and their families. The little towns look slightly more European than elsewhere on India, although they are unmistakably Indian.
Our hotel is right by the beach. The sand is golden-red, the beach is wide and long and filled with nature. The waves crash large here, and we can hear the roar constantly. The water is warmer than the air, and is shallow to the waist for a long way out. It is a beautiful beach--and in case we ever forget that we are in India, every now and then a massive water buffalo walks by.
We've had some free time this afternoon and students have been swimming and playing in the waves. All is peaceful and beautiful in this lovely tropical place. In fact, I'm writing this from the beach, watching the golden sun set over the shimmering sea.
Why am I still blogging??
Tuesday, May 15, 2012
The House
Behind Shadae is the most expensive house in the world: the high-rise home of Mukesh Ambani. 
A Shiva shrine in Dharavi
There is a mosque and a few small Hindu temples in Dharavi. This Shiva temple, while small and grim, was the openest and cleanest space we saw there.
Inside a Dharavi bakery
Dharavi produces the majority of the baked goods for hotels and restaurants in Mumbai.
What a city. I think we are starting to get it.
Mumbai is powerful: frustrating, beautiful, heartbreaking, and breathtaking. Just in the short time we've been here, we've experienced so much and seen such contrasts. We've met such friendly and open people, laughed with happy kids, and had our hearts broken by seeing such intractable poverty and hopelessness. The aggressive bustle of this city is exciting and sometimes overwhelming. Mumbai is gorgeous, open to the ocean, and sparkling with the the light from its shining new towers. The slums are dark and slinky, irregular in every way, belching putrid smoke and gagging us with their acrid stench. And all around us, people are moving moving moving. In our time here, we have barely touched the surface, and yet we know: Mumbai is amazing.
We walked through the largest and most famous slum in Asia this morning, Dharavi. More than a million people live and work packed into this dark den of humanity. It is less than 2 square kilometers, but there are no roads, only tiny tangled pathways, unpaved, treacherous, and dank. Walking was serious business, and we had to be constantly vigilant. Puddles of unidentifiable putrid liquid swallowed an errant foot. Hard packed earth suddenly became mud-soaked fabric wads. Then there was brick, or plastic pellets mashed into the mud.
It was dark and narrow, and working people pushed past us in a hurry, sometimes carrying heavy loads on their heads or in giant baskets in their arms. In spaces incredibly small, motorcycles or even a few small trucks squeezed through.
The buildings that lined the paths were rickety single-ply tin sheets braced with bamboo, or wood huts with blue plastic sheeting on top, or had crumbling ancient brick walls patched with newspaper. And everywhere we passed, there were tiny little rooms that opened out into the passageways. These rooms were dark, lit by holes in the tin or wood or plastic walls. A few had strung electrical wires and were lit by sparse bare bulbs. Every room seemed to have a group of people sitting or kneeling on the floor, working. But OSHA never dreamed of Dharavi.
We saw dogs, hens, and a few goats. The dogs were grimy and discolored. One dog was literally a sort of gray blue color, obviously having picked up some kind of accidental chemical dye job as he survived day to day in the slum.
We walked through the plastic recycling area, and all around us were huge lumpy bags full of plastic to be recycled. These burlap bags were ragged and patched, easily the size of several adults, like some kind of distorted nightmare Santa bags. In this area of Dharavi, hundreds of people work in the tiny dark rooms to sort the plastic into types. We went in small groups to see how it worked. There are large baskets, and people sit cross legged on the floor in the sweltering unmoving air, sorting mountains of used plastic into the baskets. There were giant baskets of old toy parts, dirty water bottles, big pieces of thick colored plastic, etc. The people who worked there barely looked at us; they were young, but old in their faces. They all looked dark and unnaturally thin, and they seemed really tired, although perhaps it was just that their spirits seemed beaten down and broken.
It was a heavy experience.
We also visited the leather- working area of Dharavi, and even though it was close by, we had to walk out of the slum and drive around the outside to get there. While outsiders can come into some areas of Dharavi, we are not welcome everywhere.
The leather working areas process sheep and goat leather, but not cow. They put the raw skin into a giant spinning barrel made of iron--like something out of illustrations from the industrial revolution! This giant barrel turns and clanks and groans as it slowly cures the hides. The hides are dried on indoor clothes lines, and colored the old-fashioned way, by packing them in various types of dirt. The dirt leaves a chemical trace that colors the leather permanently. Apparently, many big name companies produce their leather goods in Dharavi.
It was interesting to see how much work was going on in Dharavi. While many people live there, the slum is clearly set up for work. People come there from all over India to work, and while there are many children who live there, most of the kids go to school, so many escape the slums as they grow up. In fact, we saw quite a number of kids; they played and stared and flirted with us. Some adults as well were fascinated by us, gathering around us as we stopped to see things.
The smell was gagging. It was a mix of smoke, chemicals, and human waste. The air around us was literally thick in places, heavy and hard to breath. Open fires roiled out smoke, some obviously burning chemicals. Chimneys shoved oily black smoke into the air, while tiny vents shot out unsavory steam. Some of us had to cover our faces at times. The air pollution was so bad that it was in fact difficult to see into the distance. If this is what smog is, then Dharavi's smog must be some of the foulest in the world.
It was challenging and difficult for many of us to visit Dharavi, and very powerful as well. There are many contradictory thoughts and feelings that tumble around. I suspect it is going to take some of us some time to think it through. It really was a powerful experience, in every sense of the word.
So what else did we do today? It's hard to imagine we did anything else, but indeed our day was full.
We had quite a rare experience today, something really special. We had the opportunity to meet an actual hijra.. India's hijras are a traditional 'third gender' group, living as neither men or women. They live in small communities in every city and town. They are considered both scary and lucky, and they are traditionally invited to major events such as weddings and births to give blessings.
Hijras are born as biological males, but as boys or teens, become hijras through ritual castration. Historically, the entire genital area is removed, although not all modern hijras follow this practice. They dress as women and wear jewelry and makeup, but they are not to be confused with gay men. Their special place in society constructs them as an actual third gender.
The hijra we met today was named Janani. She was wearing a pink and yellow shalwar kameez, with a traditional gold necklace. She was wearing full makeup that made her face look whiter. Her hair was dark and curly and longish, although she had it pinned up with barrettes. She was petite and very kind. She talked a bit about herself, telling us that she was from a small town, and that her family is now the hijra communal house where she lives. She has been a Hijra since she was 18. She blessed us as a group, then went and talked with some of the students one on one. She put her hands on some heads, and some students got personal blessings. She had a kind of gentle power that was rather moving. It was so interesting to meet her, and it was also powerful, in a different way from Dharavi, of course.
Finally, from a distance today, we saw Indian billionaire Mukesh Ambani's house. This 27 story single family residence rises up above the city, complete with 600 servants and its own giant parking garage.
Talk about a city of contrasts.
We walked through the largest and most famous slum in Asia this morning, Dharavi. More than a million people live and work packed into this dark den of humanity. It is less than 2 square kilometers, but there are no roads, only tiny tangled pathways, unpaved, treacherous, and dank. Walking was serious business, and we had to be constantly vigilant. Puddles of unidentifiable putrid liquid swallowed an errant foot. Hard packed earth suddenly became mud-soaked fabric wads. Then there was brick, or plastic pellets mashed into the mud.
It was dark and narrow, and working people pushed past us in a hurry, sometimes carrying heavy loads on their heads or in giant baskets in their arms. In spaces incredibly small, motorcycles or even a few small trucks squeezed through.
The buildings that lined the paths were rickety single-ply tin sheets braced with bamboo, or wood huts with blue plastic sheeting on top, or had crumbling ancient brick walls patched with newspaper. And everywhere we passed, there were tiny little rooms that opened out into the passageways. These rooms were dark, lit by holes in the tin or wood or plastic walls. A few had strung electrical wires and were lit by sparse bare bulbs. Every room seemed to have a group of people sitting or kneeling on the floor, working. But OSHA never dreamed of Dharavi.
We saw dogs, hens, and a few goats. The dogs were grimy and discolored. One dog was literally a sort of gray blue color, obviously having picked up some kind of accidental chemical dye job as he survived day to day in the slum.
We walked through the plastic recycling area, and all around us were huge lumpy bags full of plastic to be recycled. These burlap bags were ragged and patched, easily the size of several adults, like some kind of distorted nightmare Santa bags. In this area of Dharavi, hundreds of people work in the tiny dark rooms to sort the plastic into types. We went in small groups to see how it worked. There are large baskets, and people sit cross legged on the floor in the sweltering unmoving air, sorting mountains of used plastic into the baskets. There were giant baskets of old toy parts, dirty water bottles, big pieces of thick colored plastic, etc. The people who worked there barely looked at us; they were young, but old in their faces. They all looked dark and unnaturally thin, and they seemed really tired, although perhaps it was just that their spirits seemed beaten down and broken.
It was a heavy experience.
We also visited the leather- working area of Dharavi, and even though it was close by, we had to walk out of the slum and drive around the outside to get there. While outsiders can come into some areas of Dharavi, we are not welcome everywhere.
The leather working areas process sheep and goat leather, but not cow. They put the raw skin into a giant spinning barrel made of iron--like something out of illustrations from the industrial revolution! This giant barrel turns and clanks and groans as it slowly cures the hides. The hides are dried on indoor clothes lines, and colored the old-fashioned way, by packing them in various types of dirt. The dirt leaves a chemical trace that colors the leather permanently. Apparently, many big name companies produce their leather goods in Dharavi.
It was interesting to see how much work was going on in Dharavi. While many people live there, the slum is clearly set up for work. People come there from all over India to work, and while there are many children who live there, most of the kids go to school, so many escape the slums as they grow up. In fact, we saw quite a number of kids; they played and stared and flirted with us. Some adults as well were fascinated by us, gathering around us as we stopped to see things.
The smell was gagging. It was a mix of smoke, chemicals, and human waste. The air around us was literally thick in places, heavy and hard to breath. Open fires roiled out smoke, some obviously burning chemicals. Chimneys shoved oily black smoke into the air, while tiny vents shot out unsavory steam. Some of us had to cover our faces at times. The air pollution was so bad that it was in fact difficult to see into the distance. If this is what smog is, then Dharavi's smog must be some of the foulest in the world.
It was challenging and difficult for many of us to visit Dharavi, and very powerful as well. There are many contradictory thoughts and feelings that tumble around. I suspect it is going to take some of us some time to think it through. It really was a powerful experience, in every sense of the word.
So what else did we do today? It's hard to imagine we did anything else, but indeed our day was full.
We had quite a rare experience today, something really special. We had the opportunity to meet an actual hijra.. India's hijras are a traditional 'third gender' group, living as neither men or women. They live in small communities in every city and town. They are considered both scary and lucky, and they are traditionally invited to major events such as weddings and births to give blessings.
Hijras are born as biological males, but as boys or teens, become hijras through ritual castration. Historically, the entire genital area is removed, although not all modern hijras follow this practice. They dress as women and wear jewelry and makeup, but they are not to be confused with gay men. Their special place in society constructs them as an actual third gender.
The hijra we met today was named Janani. She was wearing a pink and yellow shalwar kameez, with a traditional gold necklace. She was wearing full makeup that made her face look whiter. Her hair was dark and curly and longish, although she had it pinned up with barrettes. She was petite and very kind. She talked a bit about herself, telling us that she was from a small town, and that her family is now the hijra communal house where she lives. She has been a Hijra since she was 18. She blessed us as a group, then went and talked with some of the students one on one. She put her hands on some heads, and some students got personal blessings. She had a kind of gentle power that was rather moving. It was so interesting to meet her, and it was also powerful, in a different way from Dharavi, of course.
Finally, from a distance today, we saw Indian billionaire Mukesh Ambani's house. This 27 story single family residence rises up above the city, complete with 600 servants and its own giant parking garage.
Talk about a city of contrasts.
Monday, May 14, 2012
Mumbai, city of contrasts
We had a huge day today, with visits to the main vegetable market, a "laundry village," a fishing village right in the middle of the city, and the chance to walk through a middle class neighborhood main street. To top it off, we went to see a Bollywood film in the theater. Despite the humidity, the crowds, and the extraordinary smells of this city, we had a fabulous day.
Our fantastic local guide--a woman!--took us first to the central vegetable wholesale market. This was not a tourist place, and it was crowded and stinky and dirty and absolutely fascinating. We saw birds jam-packed into cages, puppies for sale, all sorts of fruits and vegetables, from giant piles of watermelons to exotic fresh litchis still on the branch. Some of the fruits and vegetables were so unique we had no idea what they were. Mixed among the stalls were tiny storefront shops selling everything from perfumes to candy. Much of the market was indoors, in tiny warrens and passageways that people barreled through as if they were highways. Part of the market was outdoors with only a large roof overhead. Men were everywhere, as the wholesale buying and selling of vegetables is apparently a gendered venture.
Our next visit smelled even *better.* It was a fishing village, around which the rest of the city grew. This village is more than 1500 years old, and predates the founding of the city. It was quit interesting, appearing at first to be a seaside slum. But looking more closely, it was apparent that while houses are ramshackle and tiny, and built of odd materials, they are also cared for, with small seating areas and gardens. The village has its own school, although many of the kids help their families with work instead of getting an education. The village also has two small temples, one to the monkey god Hanuman and the other to the ancient goddess from whom Mumbai got it's name: Mumba Devi.
Surrounding the village and lining the bay on either side are a number of modern high-rise buildings. The contrast is striking.
We then had an opportunity to visit the Dhobi ghats. This is a place where laundry is cleaned in the traditional manner--beaten by hand against rocks in soapy water. Then it is hung to dry, ironed, and delivered to the home or business who hired that particular laundryman. Again, it was mostly men we saw working here, though we saw a lot of kids as well. The families live right there, as the homes are not separated from the work of doing laundry. The main central area has a number of what can only be described as large concrete pens filled with water. These pens are probably 4 foot by 3 foot, and 3 feet high. Men or boys stand outside the pens dipping cloth bags of clothes in the water and swinging the wet bags up over their heads to beat on the concrete pen walls. They do this over and over aging in a rapid and fluid motion. Dip, swing, slam, dip, swing, slam! In several pens, there were young boys, maybe 7 or 8 years old who were swimming and playing while they washed clothes. They didn't have heavy bags to dip and swing, but they did have a lot of loose smaller clothing like underwear that they were washing while playing around.
The position of Dhobi is hereditary. Few are educated, and the work is backbreaking and relentless. Since most in Mumbai use the dhobis instead of doing their own laundry, there is a huge demand for this difficult work.
We ended our afternoon in the Colaba neighborhood, a middle class shopping district that blends the east and west, the old and new. A Nike store stands next to an ancient sari shop. Tiny vendor stalls line the sidewalks, making it difficult to walk. It's jammed with people, mostly middle class Indian shoppers, but Westerners as well. We had some free time there so we could walk around and experience it. After our time in the wholesale market earlier, it was quite a different experience. It definitely felt more familiar, but at the same time, everything about it was different.
We finished our day with a trip to a local (air conditioned!) movie theater. This was a multiplex theater with an Indian- style food court on the way in. The film we saw, Vicky Donor, was a Bollywood comedy/love story. With a happy ending, of course! Even though none of us speak Hindi, the language of the film, we all got the story. In fact a fair number of words were in English, which helped. Of course, we didn't understand all the humor--there were times when everyone else was laughing, including our guide. But we had fun. The best part, I think, was during the credits when they did a traditional Bollywood style musical number that looked like it had been heavily influenced by 1980s era MTV.
The humidity has been extreme. While it is actually 10 degrees cooler here than it was earlier, it feels more oppressive. The crowds of this city don't help. While we don't have the intensity of the streets of Veranasi, the packing of so many people into the spaces of streets and sidewalks is challenging. There is a lot of jostling and touching and bumping and pushing. It's not directed personally; everyone is just trying to get where they are going. But it is a very different sense of proxemics than we are used to, and it requires more attention than walking usually does. Coupled with the humidity and our packed schedule, we are really wiped out at the end of the day. But it's all good. What an experience this is!
Our fantastic local guide--a woman!--took us first to the central vegetable wholesale market. This was not a tourist place, and it was crowded and stinky and dirty and absolutely fascinating. We saw birds jam-packed into cages, puppies for sale, all sorts of fruits and vegetables, from giant piles of watermelons to exotic fresh litchis still on the branch. Some of the fruits and vegetables were so unique we had no idea what they were. Mixed among the stalls were tiny storefront shops selling everything from perfumes to candy. Much of the market was indoors, in tiny warrens and passageways that people barreled through as if they were highways. Part of the market was outdoors with only a large roof overhead. Men were everywhere, as the wholesale buying and selling of vegetables is apparently a gendered venture.
Our next visit smelled even *better.* It was a fishing village, around which the rest of the city grew. This village is more than 1500 years old, and predates the founding of the city. It was quit interesting, appearing at first to be a seaside slum. But looking more closely, it was apparent that while houses are ramshackle and tiny, and built of odd materials, they are also cared for, with small seating areas and gardens. The village has its own school, although many of the kids help their families with work instead of getting an education. The village also has two small temples, one to the monkey god Hanuman and the other to the ancient goddess from whom Mumbai got it's name: Mumba Devi.
Surrounding the village and lining the bay on either side are a number of modern high-rise buildings. The contrast is striking.
We then had an opportunity to visit the Dhobi ghats. This is a place where laundry is cleaned in the traditional manner--beaten by hand against rocks in soapy water. Then it is hung to dry, ironed, and delivered to the home or business who hired that particular laundryman. Again, it was mostly men we saw working here, though we saw a lot of kids as well. The families live right there, as the homes are not separated from the work of doing laundry. The main central area has a number of what can only be described as large concrete pens filled with water. These pens are probably 4 foot by 3 foot, and 3 feet high. Men or boys stand outside the pens dipping cloth bags of clothes in the water and swinging the wet bags up over their heads to beat on the concrete pen walls. They do this over and over aging in a rapid and fluid motion. Dip, swing, slam, dip, swing, slam! In several pens, there were young boys, maybe 7 or 8 years old who were swimming and playing while they washed clothes. They didn't have heavy bags to dip and swing, but they did have a lot of loose smaller clothing like underwear that they were washing while playing around.
The position of Dhobi is hereditary. Few are educated, and the work is backbreaking and relentless. Since most in Mumbai use the dhobis instead of doing their own laundry, there is a huge demand for this difficult work.
We ended our afternoon in the Colaba neighborhood, a middle class shopping district that blends the east and west, the old and new. A Nike store stands next to an ancient sari shop. Tiny vendor stalls line the sidewalks, making it difficult to walk. It's jammed with people, mostly middle class Indian shoppers, but Westerners as well. We had some free time there so we could walk around and experience it. After our time in the wholesale market earlier, it was quite a different experience. It definitely felt more familiar, but at the same time, everything about it was different.
We finished our day with a trip to a local (air conditioned!) movie theater. This was a multiplex theater with an Indian- style food court on the way in. The film we saw, Vicky Donor, was a Bollywood comedy/love story. With a happy ending, of course! Even though none of us speak Hindi, the language of the film, we all got the story. In fact a fair number of words were in English, which helped. Of course, we didn't understand all the humor--there were times when everyone else was laughing, including our guide. But we had fun. The best part, I think, was during the credits when they did a traditional Bollywood style musical number that looked like it had been heavily influenced by 1980s era MTV.
The humidity has been extreme. While it is actually 10 degrees cooler here than it was earlier, it feels more oppressive. The crowds of this city don't help. While we don't have the intensity of the streets of Veranasi, the packing of so many people into the spaces of streets and sidewalks is challenging. There is a lot of jostling and touching and bumping and pushing. It's not directed personally; everyone is just trying to get where they are going. But it is a very different sense of proxemics than we are used to, and it requires more attention than walking usually does. Coupled with the humidity and our packed schedule, we are really wiped out at the end of the day. But it's all good. What an experience this is!
Sunday, May 13, 2012
Our first day in Mumbai
Our hotel is located just a block and a half from the ocean. And not just any spot on the ocean, but the giant arch called The Gateway of India is literally right here. Cafe Leopold, another famous place Mumbai, is right around the corner. Let's just say the neighborhood is really nice. And it adds a whole new set of experiences for us in this incredibly diverse country.
We spent the afternoon on Elephanta Island, home to an ancient Shiva temple, hand-carved out of the cliff face. To get there, we had an hour boat ride on a small, double-decker wood boat, past tankers and low-riding fishing boats, freighters, and navy vessels. The water, while clear, was a yellowish green color. Fortunately, it was fairly calm today.
When we got to the island, we had a crowded walk down a long dock, perhaps a half mile out into the sea. Along the dock, people were selling vegetables--cut cucumbers, tiny squash that get popped raw into the mouth, and roasted corn drizzled in lime juice and rolled in red pepper. As we got to shore and started to walk up the hill, the stone path became lined almost completely with small vendors, and canopied with colorful fabric and blue plastic sheeting. The path was narrow, built originally for the monks and the pilgrims. There were more than 100 steps, but some steps were narrow, some had 20 or 30 feet between them, some were short, and some were very tall. Some areas without steps were so steep it seemed crazy that there wasn't a step built in. And the stones that paved the way were uneven, so, as is probably clear from this description, the climb up to the caves was quite an adventure! Oh, and did I mention that there was a surging crowd for literally every step of the way? It was packed, although we were almost the only Westerners there. It was mostly Indian family groups out on a lovely Sunday afternoon. And there were the usual cows and dogs and monkeys as well.
Just as we reached the top, we had a dramatic moment. A cow lurched forward out of nowhere and "blessed" Brazil. That's what we are calling it, at least. What actually happened is that the cow stepped right on Brazil's foot, which was quite painful and scary. Fortunately, nothing is broken, but it does hurt. It took a while before Brazil could walk, so we hired a chair for her. In other words, 4 men put Brazil in a special chair mounted on two long poles and carried her like a queen on their shoulders. They took her around the caves with us, then back down the mountainside and all the way to the boat. The drama! Fortunately, Brazil is doing just fine and we are keeping an eye on her foot.
The Shiva temple in the caves is amazing! It is carved into solid rock, with massive decorated pillars holding up the roof. In the center is a large room with the lingam, or large phallic rock. This is probably 3 feet tall and half as wide, and had flowers and offerings left by modern day worshippers draped on top and around. Throughout the rest of the cave, there are large detailed sculptures, cut right into the rock, of the life of Shiva. These massive carvings are easily 10 feet tall, and even after 1500 years, the craft ship and detail was evident. The most impressive sculpture is of Shiva with 3 giant heads, each with a different expression and meaning. This took up most of the back wall.
It was an incredible experience to see this ancient place. It is clearly still considered holy by some modern visitors, but it is also a UNESCO world heritage site. It was packed with people, although we have quickly come to realize that Mumbai itself is simply crowded, and that our experience here will likely always entail aggressive crowds and a lot of people around us. It's quite amazing how packed it has been here. The crowded streets and sidewalks are just jammed with people and cars and bikes and motorcycles and cows, all moving and pushing. The walk past the Gateway and down to the boat was an intense experience pushing through a boiling crowd and jumping onto a boat while being pushed forward by the massive surge of humanity. Mumbai, we have found, is just like that.
This is going to be interesting!
We spent the afternoon on Elephanta Island, home to an ancient Shiva temple, hand-carved out of the cliff face. To get there, we had an hour boat ride on a small, double-decker wood boat, past tankers and low-riding fishing boats, freighters, and navy vessels. The water, while clear, was a yellowish green color. Fortunately, it was fairly calm today.
When we got to the island, we had a crowded walk down a long dock, perhaps a half mile out into the sea. Along the dock, people were selling vegetables--cut cucumbers, tiny squash that get popped raw into the mouth, and roasted corn drizzled in lime juice and rolled in red pepper. As we got to shore and started to walk up the hill, the stone path became lined almost completely with small vendors, and canopied with colorful fabric and blue plastic sheeting. The path was narrow, built originally for the monks and the pilgrims. There were more than 100 steps, but some steps were narrow, some had 20 or 30 feet between them, some were short, and some were very tall. Some areas without steps were so steep it seemed crazy that there wasn't a step built in. And the stones that paved the way were uneven, so, as is probably clear from this description, the climb up to the caves was quite an adventure! Oh, and did I mention that there was a surging crowd for literally every step of the way? It was packed, although we were almost the only Westerners there. It was mostly Indian family groups out on a lovely Sunday afternoon. And there were the usual cows and dogs and monkeys as well.
Just as we reached the top, we had a dramatic moment. A cow lurched forward out of nowhere and "blessed" Brazil. That's what we are calling it, at least. What actually happened is that the cow stepped right on Brazil's foot, which was quite painful and scary. Fortunately, nothing is broken, but it does hurt. It took a while before Brazil could walk, so we hired a chair for her. In other words, 4 men put Brazil in a special chair mounted on two long poles and carried her like a queen on their shoulders. They took her around the caves with us, then back down the mountainside and all the way to the boat. The drama! Fortunately, Brazil is doing just fine and we are keeping an eye on her foot.
The Shiva temple in the caves is amazing! It is carved into solid rock, with massive decorated pillars holding up the roof. In the center is a large room with the lingam, or large phallic rock. This is probably 3 feet tall and half as wide, and had flowers and offerings left by modern day worshippers draped on top and around. Throughout the rest of the cave, there are large detailed sculptures, cut right into the rock, of the life of Shiva. These massive carvings are easily 10 feet tall, and even after 1500 years, the craft ship and detail was evident. The most impressive sculpture is of Shiva with 3 giant heads, each with a different expression and meaning. This took up most of the back wall.
It was an incredible experience to see this ancient place. It is clearly still considered holy by some modern visitors, but it is also a UNESCO world heritage site. It was packed with people, although we have quickly come to realize that Mumbai itself is simply crowded, and that our experience here will likely always entail aggressive crowds and a lot of people around us. It's quite amazing how packed it has been here. The crowded streets and sidewalks are just jammed with people and cars and bikes and motorcycles and cows, all moving and pushing. The walk past the Gateway and down to the boat was an intense experience pushing through a boiling crowd and jumping onto a boat while being pushed forward by the massive surge of humanity. Mumbai, we have found, is just like that.
This is going to be interesting!
Saturday, May 12, 2012
The night train to Mumbai
We all managed to make it to Mumbai just fine, perhaps a little grimy and tired, but we're all just fine. This train had triple decker bunks, so we had to fit more luggage and more people in each compartment. We were really packed in! Fortunately, this train was cleaner and happier than the last one.
There were quite a lot of vendors passing through, everything from "chai chai chaiiii" to funny Indian chip-like snacks, to full meals. Some of us tried some interesting things: most interesting had to be the masala flavored crispy fried identified crunchy and skinny chips. Don't know what they were, but they tasted great!
We got in early this morning after rolling gently into this massive city. We rolled from open fields with scrubby mountains in the background, to salt marshes and salt farms, to beautiful open salt water bays, to gleaming new metal and glass suburbs, to ramshackle old concrete colonial sprawl, to crushing slums. Mumbai, even in the little we have seen of it so far, is a city of contrasts.
We are staying in an area of the city right near the ocean. This is a safe area for students to walk around. The famous Cafe Leopoldo is right around the corner. We have a bit of free time now, to unwind from the train. Some students ate out already exploring the neighborhood. Others are napping. We are out and about soon enough!
There were quite a lot of vendors passing through, everything from "chai chai chaiiii" to funny Indian chip-like snacks, to full meals. Some of us tried some interesting things: most interesting had to be the masala flavored crispy fried identified crunchy and skinny chips. Don't know what they were, but they tasted great!
We got in early this morning after rolling gently into this massive city. We rolled from open fields with scrubby mountains in the background, to salt marshes and salt farms, to beautiful open salt water bays, to gleaming new metal and glass suburbs, to ramshackle old concrete colonial sprawl, to crushing slums. Mumbai, even in the little we have seen of it so far, is a city of contrasts.
We are staying in an area of the city right near the ocean. This is a safe area for students to walk around. The famous Cafe Leopoldo is right around the corner. We have a bit of free time now, to unwind from the train. Some students ate out already exploring the neighborhood. Others are napping. We are out and about soon enough!
Friday, May 11, 2012
Leaving Jaipur
We had a lovely day yesterday put in the small villages near Jaipur. We walked through the crowded markets and town centers, followed by curious and playful kids. We took photos of the kids and made faces and laughed, and the kids loved to see their pictures. Some of us had brought small gifts for kids, and Korrine had made a number of beautiful bracelets that she gave out.
When we came back into Jaipur, we had some free time in the afternoon. Most of the students walked around in the giant central market streets of old Jaipur. These are definitely not tourist streets, and it takes a lot of confidence to haggle and bargain. But we had students successfully and happily experiencing all of the amazing opportunities. We also had several students find the local henna shops and they now have some beautiful traditional Indian henna patterns on their hands.
We are about to leave this lovely area and move to one of the largest cities in the world, Mumbai. I'm sure the contrast will be stark, but it will also give us a whole new set of amazing experiences in India. First, though, we have to get the 'experience' of a 17 hour overnight train ride. We leave our hotel soon, and we'll be stopping at an Indian grocery store--another experience!--and then we get on that train...
When we came back into Jaipur, we had some free time in the afternoon. Most of the students walked around in the giant central market streets of old Jaipur. These are definitely not tourist streets, and it takes a lot of confidence to haggle and bargain. But we had students successfully and happily experiencing all of the amazing opportunities. We also had several students find the local henna shops and they now have some beautiful traditional Indian henna patterns on their hands.
We are about to leave this lovely area and move to one of the largest cities in the world, Mumbai. I'm sure the contrast will be stark, but it will also give us a whole new set of amazing experiences in India. First, though, we have to get the 'experience' of a 17 hour overnight train ride. We leave our hotel soon, and we'll be stopping at an Indian grocery store--another experience!--and then we get on that train...
The market at Chomu
We visited a tiny rural town today and went to the local market. It was frenetic and crowded and full of life and color and smells--some good smells, like the ground spices and street food, and some bad, where you just don't want to know. 
Beautiful hand tailored clothes
Some of the students ordered custom clothes yesterday--shalwar kameez, or harem pants or long colorful tunics. A few bought saris today. I think some of these students will be bringing a new style back to campus!
Casey's birthday!
Casey had her 20th birthday in India, and we celebrated with a lovely chocolate cake, eaten after dinner in an amazing 300 year old royal house. The house is still owned by members of the royal family, and we got to meet some of them and have a tour of where they live. We had the best dinner we have eaten in India, served in the beautiful dining room on antique marble-top tables, with arched pillars keeping the room permanently open to the grassy central courtyard. It was quite a view into the wealthy and privileged side of India, and it was an amazing and memorable birthday. And of course, our guide Uttam made sure that Casey had her face painted with frosting to celebrate!
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